Wild Riviera: Marine Parks, Calanques and the Mercantour

The Riviera’s wild side, from the underwater trail of Port-Cros, Europe’s first marine national park, and the Calanques between Marseille and Cassis, to the whales and dolphins of the open sea and the ibex and chamois of the Mercantour National Park in the mountains behind Nice, with a directory of the places in our guide. Facts from the national parks themselves.

Behind the glamour, the Riviera is wilder than it looks. Off Hyères, the islands of Port-Cros and Porquerolles are protected by one of the oldest national parks in France; between Marseille and Cassis, the white limestone of the Calanques falls straight into a clear sea; and in the mountains north of Nice, the Mercantour National Park climbs to high Alpine country where ibex and chamois graze above the larches.

This is a short guide: the coast’s life is mostly under the surface and in the mountains, and both reward a little effort. Bring a mask and snorkel, good shoes, and respect for the parks’ rules.

Off Hyères, a trail of six buoys leads snorkellers over the seagrass of Europe’s first marine national park.

Under the sea: Port-Cros and Porquerolles

The Parc national de Port-Cros protects the island of Port-Cros and parts of Porquerolles and their waters. From the beach of La Palud, about 30 minutes’ walk from the port of Port-Cros, an underwater trail marked by six buoys takes about 40 minutes with mask, snorkel and fins, over seagrass and rocks where fish gather. Porquerolles, off Hyères, lies partly within the park.

Further west, the Calanques National Park protects the coast between Marseille and Cassis; boats leave Cassis harbour on circuits of the calanques all year round, weather permitting, and in summer the massifs can close on days of high fire risk.

Whales and dolphins offshore

The open sea off the Riviera, between Provence, Corsica and the Italian coast, is a protected area for whales and dolphins, the Pelagos Sanctuary, created jointly by France, Italy and Monaco. Fin whales, among the largest animals on earth, and striped dolphins live in its deep water. If you go whale-watching, choose an operator that keeps its distance and its speed down.

The Mercantour: high Alpine wildlife

Behind Nice, the Mercantour National Park takes in the high valleys and peaks of the Maritime Alps. Ibex and chamois graze the high slopes, marmots whistle from the summer meadows, and wolves, which returned naturally from Italy in the early 1990s, live in its forests, though they are rarely seen. Dogs are not allowed in the park’s core; never approach the animals.

Feature: Port-Cros, the marine park

Port-Cros was created by decree on 14 December 1963, and the park describes itself as the first marine national park in Europe, protecting the sea as well as the land. Its seagrass meadows shelter fish, and its island trails run through pine and holm oak. Visit by boat from Hyères or Le Lavandou, take your rubbish back with you, and don’t anchor on the seagrass.

Did you know? Port-Cros was the first national park in Europe to protect the sea as well as the land, and France’s second national park, created six months after the Vanoise.

Our advice

Our advice: snorkel the Port-Cros underwater trail on a calm morning, check the Calanques’ fire-risk closures in summer before you set out, and plan the Mercantour for the summer months, with proper boots and water. Never feed wildlife, don’t pick plants in the parks, and choose whale-watching trips that keep their distance.